Notes from the Field: Why We Farm Organically

Yardlong beans and morning glories in the Learning Garden

A recent Stanford University study made news by casting doubts upon whether organic food is, simply by being organic, healthier for us than non-organic food.  The news coverage of the story featured many people being surprised about the fact that organic farms do use pesticides and fertilizers (ones that are on a list approved by the Organic Materials Review Institute), and that organic food does not automatically provide more nutrition or health benefits to its consumers.  One radio report hinted at the fact that 'organic' might just be a ploy by some big companies to be able to charge unsuspecting customers more for healthier-sounding food.



B to F: tomatoes, broccoli, and turnips

I've been mulling over what troubles me about this the coverage of this study (actually a meta-study, which examined a large amount of data collected in experiments over the past couple of decades).  I've read Michael Pollan's response, as well as the argument from Marion Nestle (written prior to the Stanford study's publication) about the ongoing controversy over organic food, and I think I've figured out what it is: for many of us who farm organically, who are not associated with big companies or even big agriculture, organic is not just a consumer label.  In many ways, it has very little to do with how we market our products.

PYO husk cherries, also known as groundcherries

Organic farming is about how we grow, why we do what we do, and our desire to make a positive impact on the world.  I chose organic farming as a profession because I believe that organic production is a scientifically based attempt to create an agriculture that produces economically viable yields of beautiful, nutritious vegetables while remaining as beneficial to the environment, and to farmworkers, as possible.  While I often shorten it to "farmer" when I'm describing what I do, in my heart of hearts, I'm an organic farmer.

Okra flower and young pods

To me, organic doesn't mean boutique farming or baby vegetables, or getting the highest price we possibly can for our crops.  The higher price for organic food is only justified because sometimes it costs more money to grow in a way that is more environmentally thoughtful; composted dairy manure, for example, costs more than synthetic petrochemical fertilizers but is less likely to create pollution if it is well-managed.  (In an ideal world, the cows that produce that manure would also live on the organic farm, but our agricultural world, especially in our urban area, is very much less than ideal.)  Organic farming, to me as a grower, means that I can almost always eat what I grow right out of the ground; it means that my children, and our shareholders, and the people who work on the farm day in and day out, can walk through the fields, pick their own food, and generally eat from the land in a way that minimizes the amount of pesticides they are exposed to.  It means making a conscious effort, day in and day out, to farm in a way that builds healthy soil that grows healthy food.

B to F: carrots and bush beans (and some weeds)

Organic farming isn't perfect.  It can be fuel intensive, input-heavy, labor intensive, expensive, and heartbreaking.  Growing three rows of fennel on a four-foot-wide, two-hundred-foot long bed is certainly not mimicking any natural system I've ever come across.  The pesticides that we are allowed to use under the standards approved by the USDA are not harmless, non-toxic plant compounds; some of them are deadly chemicals that happen to be naturally derived.  Not only that, they are not as effective as the deadly synthetic chemicals that conventional farmers are allowed to use.

Tithonia, also known as Mexican sunflower

There is much that is still unknown about the way soil functions naturally and how we can build a functioning soil ecosystem that grows nutritious organic vegetables.  And the truth is that not all organic farmers are good farmers; some of us, while well-intentioned, are still learning -- farming, after all, is an art as much as a science, and organic farming takes years of practice to learn well.  A wise, experienced conventional farmer may well grow food with more nutritional value than a sloppy, inexperienced, or negligent organic farmer.  A master farmer -- of any stripe -- is one who grows bountiful yields of highly nutritious vegetables from highly functioning soil; I just happen to believe that organic methods are the road I want to take to get to that level, if I ever do.

Farm-to-plate: a late summer meal made from Waltham Fields' vegetables

There are very few things that I'm willing to say I believe in as I get older.  Even the Red Sox are not what they used to be.  And 'big organic'  is definitely not what 'organic' used to be.  For better or for worse, organic farming has come a long way from the  days of back-to-the-landers with their bug-riddled zucchini and kale.  But the fundamental idea of trying to grow healthy food -- and lots of it --  in a way that is kinder to the earth and to those who work it is one that I do believe in and try to manifest every day.  Making that food available to everyone in our society is another idea I believe in.  And I am truly grateful that, day in and day out, I can practice something that I deeply believe, regardless of the study of the day or the food fad of the week.  That's why we grow organically at Waltham Fields.



Hope you enjoy the harvest,

Amanda, for the farm crew

Images by Rebekah Carter (2012).

CSA Salad with Carrot-Ginger Dressing

CSA distributions have begun, and we all know what that means in New England: greens! And loads of cruciferous roots, stems, and leaves, too. While many of these items are delicious sauteed, stir-fried, and roasted, I prefer to eat them in their raw state when temperatures linger in the upper 80's/low 90's, much like they have this week. Here's a suggestion for a CSA-inspired salad with a refreshing and robust carrot-ginger dressing.

CSA Salad
Makes 2 servings
Ingredients:

• 6 cups salad greens, such as chopped head lettuce, spinach, or arugula
• 2 cups Asian greens, such as chopped mustard greens, kale, bok choy, or cabbage
• 1 kohlrabi, julienne-sliced
• 4 radishes or 2 turnips, thinly-sliced
• 1 cup sugar snap or snow peas, tops and strings removed
• Garnish of scallions, thinly-sliced

Directions:
Wash, chop, and (salad) spin greens. Wash and prep other vegetables as indicated. Combine and gently toss greens and kohlrabi with carrot-ginger dressing or preferred dressing; garnish with radish/turnip slices, peas, and scallions.

Carrot-Ginger Dressing
Makes about 1 1/2 cups or more

Ingredients:

• 4 medium carrots, roughly chopped
• 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
• 1-2 tbsp garlic scape, finely chopped
• 3 tbsp rice vinegar
• 1 tbsp sesame oil
• 1 tsp soy sauce
• 1/4 cup oil (I used walnut oil)

Directions:

Place all ingredients except oil in a blender or food processor; process until finely chopped. Slowly add the oil and continue processing until smooth; add water to thin, if desired. The dressing can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to one week.

Rebekah

Images by Rebekah Carter (2012). Dressing recipe slightly adapted from The Kitchn.

Cooking with Greens

It's official: the CSA and farmers market season in Massachusetts is finally here! With New England's summer bounty finally making its way out of fertile plots and into the hands (and reusable bags) of northeastern residents, one question remains: what do I do with all these greens? Well, quite simply, many things! Sauteed or stir-fried, baked or raw, there are endless possibilities when it comes to consuming your greens. Below are some ideas about how to include more of these super-nutritious leafy vegetables in your diet.

Breakfast:

Greens in the morning? Why not! I'm a big fan of sauteing hearty greens like kale or the more tender Swiss chard with fresh garlic or onions, some olive oil or butter, and a splash of a lemon juice or vinegar (white, cider, red wine, balsamic... they all work well depending on the flavor you are trying to achieve). Boost the flavor by adding some cumin seeds or powder and a sprinkle of red pepper flake for a touch of heat. Or fold in some Parmesan cheese as a final step in your sauteed creation. Serve it with some eggs and pan-fried potatoes (bake potato, sliced + garlic powder + paprika) and you have a complete meal. Ribbon-sliced spinach and chard make wonderful additions to any omelet or quiche; saute them first in order to draw out water, thereby preventing your egg dish from being soupy.

Lunch:

Raw greens, in a salad with freshly-picked radishes, salad turnips, and scallions, make for a light and local midday meal. Late spring and early summer are "the salad days," as they say, so enjoy those tender lettuces, spinach, and arugula with a light vinaigrette made from whisked olive oil, lemon juice, and finely-chopped garlic scapes (VERY limited season so get 'em now!) or scallions with salt and fresh-ground pepper to taste. If lemons aren't your favorite, use balsamic or red wine vinegar instead; keep in mind that a basic vinaigrette calls for 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil (I add a little dab of Dijon mustard, too). Add roasted beets, apple or pear slices, nuts, seeds, and goat cheese to really bulk things up!

Dinner:

Stir frying your greens with fresh veggies is another quick and simple way to increase the nutrient content of your meals. Asian greens, such as bok choy, tatsoi, and mustard greens, mixed with thickly-sliced mushrooms, celery, peppers, julienne carrots and alliums, can be hit with some soy sauce, rice vinegar, and a light drizzle of sesame oil, making for a delicious supper (I finish with the sesame for flavor but initially use another cooking oil, such as olive or canola oil, for the actual stir-frying). Another favorite of mine: replace the sesame oil with red curry paste, basil (Thai if available), and red pepper flake for some southeast Asian flavor; a generous splash of coconut milk and a touch of lime juice take it to the next level.


Go Mediterranean style with your kale, Swiss chard, and spinach by sauteing these greens with garlic or onion, fresh herbs like marjoram, thyme, and basil, thinly-sliced fennel, and mushrooms with a splash of vinegar or lemon juice. Tomatoes, whether fresh, sundried, or canned, and shaved Parmesan make excellent additions as well. Finely-chopped greens folded into tomato sauce is another way to feed even the pickiest of eaters a healthy dose of these nutrient-rich vegetables.

Snack:

Kale chips can be a big hit even with picky eaters who tend to pass on greens. Heat your oven to 400 degrees F; wash, dry, and de-stem a bunch of kale (or Swiss chard) and cut or tear into large pieces. Drizzle about 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large bowl and add the kale; toss so that the greens become lightly coated. Transfer greens to cookie sheets (single layer of kale or chard to ensure proper roasting) and sprinkle with coarse salt. Bake for 10 minutes or until the pieces are crisp. Feel free to try other seasonings like garlic or onion powder, cumin, smoked paprika, vinegar, or sesame oil.

Why are greens so good for me?

Your diet should include all colors of the rainbow; eating a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, both raw and cooked, every day is key to achieving optimal health. Leafy greens are extra special, though, as they are packed with many essential vitamins (A, C, K, folate) and minerals (calcium, potassium, iron), fiber (soluble and insoluble for cholesterol reduction and regularity), and antioxidants that help repair and prevent damage caused by free radicals that promote aging and chronic disease.

Rebekah

Images by Rebekah Carter (2011).

For additional advice on cooking greens or other vegetables, leave a comment on this post, contact Rebekah, or check out suggestions by Waltham Fields.

Vegetarian Borscht

Borscht is popular soup of Eastern and Central Europe. Served both hot and cold, the term "borscht" is used for several varieties of beet-based soups; most traditional recipes include ingredients such as cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, and/or beef, in addition to beets. The recipe below is a vegetarian* take on this classic soup. We recommend serving it with a dark bread such as rye or pumpernickel and a dollop of sour cream or plain greek yogurt.

*Make this dish vegan by replacing the butter with olive oil and omitting the sour cream/yogurt garnish.

The Ingredients:

• 5 tbsp butter
• 3 medium onions, diced
• 3 cloves of garlic, crushed & minced
• 1 1/2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
• 1 tbsp fresh thyme, chopped
  
• 2 tbsp dried fenugreek, chopped
  
• 2-3 stalks of celery, diced
• 2 large carrots, one diced, one sliced into rounds
• 2-3 cups beets, small or medium sized, peeled & sliced
• 1 cup potato, sliced or diced
• 1 cup turnips, peeled & sliced
  
• 1 small cabbage, sliced into ribbons
• 6 cups of vegetable stock
• 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
• 1 tsp dijon mustard
  
• 4 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
  
• Salt, according to taste (at least 1 tsp)

How to Make it:

Prepare all produce and ingredients as instructed. In a large pot over medium heat, melt your butter and add your onion, garlic, parsley, thyme, fenugreek, celery, diced carrots, and a sprinkle of salt; saute this mixture for about 3 minutes, stirring often. Next, add your beets, potato, carrot slices, turnips, and another sprinkle of salt; saute this mixture for 20-25 minutes or until the root vegetables are slightly soft. Add your vegetable stock and bring to a boil; reduce the heat and add your vinegar, dill, cabbage, and salt to taste and simmer for 20-25 minutes. You can enjoy this soup immediately but the flavor really develops a day or so after its original preparation! Consume within a week.


Media (text and images) created and published by Rebekah Carter 2010.